July 10, Graceland and more

We were up early Saturday morning, to visit Graceland before it opened. The line of Elvis fanatics was already long. We opted to sign the stone wall in front of the home, take a photo and move on north. Or as Hannah says "RUN"! We have gotten used to people coming up to the car. But when your in a Pink Cadillac outside the home of Elvis, you become part of the show. Just a little to weird, even for us.
After leaving Graceland, we rumbled through downtown Memphis where the Blues were born. I would love to see Beale Street at night with all its Neon. Well, not this trip. We did find a Starbucks and our first cup of real coffee in 12 days. Yes, ... we all know it is a chain. But for 12 days we have drank hot brown water. Those Mom and Pop diners have great food and friendly people but the coffee............

On the road again. We stopped in Jackson, TN to have some good ole' Memphis BBQ and the local Jackson Cheerleaders washed Matilda while we ate. It was a fundraiser to go to camp.

This was the first time on the trip the girl's watched TV. Four movies in a row. Their favorite, “Wagons East”. We drove till late Saturday night. We stopped on the side of the road outside Chilhowie, VA to watch the fireworks. They were fun, and an appropriate end to our day. Except we haven't stopped yet. We drove till well past midnight and stayed in Salem, VA. It was a long day but a fun day just the same. We are all now excited to get home to see the dogs and cat. Ella is convinced they are having a party, sleeping on the couch, drinking out of the toilet, you know breaking all the rules. BUT little do they know the dog/house sitter is a retired K-9 officer, so there will be no little pet parties. Even though we miss the pets we are already making plans for our next adventure in the pink caddy "Matilda".

July 8,9, OK and a belated Update

We left Santa Rosa and the La Loma Motel early.   Sorry to be missing our motel host, Eddie and his great stories.  (did we mention that Eddie has an extensive collection of vintage 60's furniture and a three wheel bike, with two brakes on the front tire?)  The La Loma Motel parking lot was interesting it was built with just paved strips for your car to park on.  In between the paved strips is gravel to collect any drippings from your car.   Not that this matters to anyone. However; Eddie works really hard to maintain his little Motel and it and people like Eddie are part of the Route 66 charm.  He was friendly and the La Loma Motel safe and charming.  We made Tucumcari for breakfast.  We stopped at a very cute, very small diner, named Rudee's.  The food was great.  We met Archie Mower, "as in lawn mower"when we walked in.  Archie is charming man wearing Red, White and Blue suspenders.  He eats breakfast at Rudee's every time he visits from OK.   After some discussion and photos he revealed a secret.  The tip of his cane conceals an American flag.  Just the right size for waving in a parade.  We stopped at the Teepee curio shop and at an ice cream shop on our way out.  And yes, Rick managed to find a western shop to buy a lasso.  He has wanted one every since the Will Rogers Memorial stop showed footage of Will Rogers roping.  Then again maybe he has wanted it his whole life.  So, here we are way behind schedule.  We have talked to everyone, stopped everywhere and generally not stayed on course.  We have had fun but we need to move.  Debbie, I am sorry, I am not going to be able to stop in Amarillo for lunch.  Maybe next time.  

We did stop long enough to run out to the Cadillac Ranch west of Amarillo.   The landmark has changed a bit since I lived here.  For one, it has moved it's location and second the cars are more stripped and more brightly painted.  The Cadillac Ranch is another fun place to sign your name.   We bumped into a fellow there who stated, "i knew for 87 miles, I would see you all here" I guess the car was a dead give away.   Anyway a quick run to the cars through a Texas farm field, some quick photos and back onthe road. 

We made Shawnee, OK in time to have pizza at a local shop.  It was so good we got one to go.  First Pizza in over two weeks.

The car has decided that it likes traveling at 75 to 80 and is now getting well over 15 MPG.  Woo hoo, if we had figured this out earlier we may have made California.  Maybe next year and there will be a next year.

July 7, 2004 Canyon de Chelly

July 7, 2004 Chinle, AZ

They call this place Tseyi which means "the place with in the rocks"
Our guide arrived to the hotel at 8am to take us on our journey into Canyon De Chelly.  His name is Stanley Yellowman and told to be on of the best guides. Stanley, his brothers and sisters grew up in the canyon and now are guides.
We did not really know what to expect with this tour.   All I can say is it was incredible!!!  This was by far the best detour we ever took.
The canyon was beautiful, the ruins amazing, so inspiring and peaceful.  The pictographs and petroglyphs were wonderful.  It was amazing to stand next to ruins and paintings dating back to 200- 1300 AD.  Our guide was excellent. He told stories from his childhood growing up in this beautiful place.   He told the  stories of the rocks and ruins as he had been told by his forefathers that lived here.  This was a great side trip.  The photos don’t do this sacred place justice. After our tour we drove and drove.  Made it to Santa Rosa NM for the night.

Now we really need to make time, to get home.  We decided to come home on 40 through Tennessee.

Heading home with a detour July 6, 2004

July 6, 2004

We left the Grand Canyon this morning heading out over the East Rim and then through the reservations.  First a couple more stops to buy trinkets. 

Then out in to the wide-open spaces.  Our first reservation to go through is Navajo, then the Hopi and then the Navajo again.   The countryside is beautiful.  Red sand stone and the Painted Desert are all around us.  Hannah is driving again.  She put in over three hours on twisty roads with high cliffs. We stopped at the Hopi Cultural Center for lunch.   I had a Hopi Tostada, made with frybread, it was really good.  So tasty, it had been a long time since breakfast, so we were all starved and the food tasted so yummy.   After filling up our bellies we are back on the road toward Gallup.  We stopped in Ganado for gas and nice man named Earnest told us to go to Canyon de Chelly at Chinle.  Of course it is out of our way but he was pretty convincing so we turned north to see Chinle.  Got a room and hired a Navajo guide for tomorrow morning. We have just for a quick swim, well we did have to pull the car out front so that two local families could take a photo with the car, then time for sleep.

July 5, 2004

July 5, 2004

Hannah’s Birthday!  We really need to make some time if we are going to make the Grand Canyon.  The temperature is hot and feels best moving fast.  So, we packed up all our belongings and headed out.  NO STOPS.  Oh well, we did do laundry at a local Wash-o-Mat while the girls had breakfast at the El Rancho.

 

OK, one or two stops to buy jewelry from the local merchants.  Well, a third stop to pick up just one more piece of jewelry.

OK, we have to get gas.

OK, the Petrified Forest would be nice.

OK, the giant dinosaur is funny.

OK, your right lunch at Joe and Aggie’s is a must on route 66.

OK, a quick stop in “Winslow, Arizona such a fine sight to see.”

OK, time for gas again but really no more stops.

Wow, we made it to the Grand Canyon, Woo Hoo!!  And it was perfect timing for sunset.

The canyon was of course breath taking.  And at one of those stops we bought Twinkies and candles for Hannah’s Birthday.  Could there be a better place to make a birthday wish than looking out over the vistas of the Grand Canyon.  Kind of makes up for the fact that, its just twinkies.  Happy Birthday Hannah!!!!!

As the sun finally set we went to our car.  Only to be surrounded by a bus load  of Japanese tourist, who were more interested in our Pink Cadillac, than the canyon vistas.   After lots of photos and smiling, we were allowed to go on our way.

 

One more stop for dinner and a slice of cheesecake with a candle, before checking in to our hotel. 

Tomorrow we start to drive home????.

Happy Birthday Hannah

ITS HANNAH'S BIRTHDAY TODAY JULY 5, 2004
She is sweet sixteen and we will have lots of photo when we find another connection!

Leaving Tucumcari and reaching Gallup

July 4, 2004

We left the Blue Swallow this morning after highlighting Hannah’s hair. We made a quick stop at Teepee Curios for more and the scenery is changing quickly.  The vistas out the car windows are incredible.  We stopped in Santa Rosa for breakfast the food was wonderful but we caught them on a slow day.

Several miles down the road we pulled in to San Fidel, NM.  Our first greeter was Mike Molina at the White Arrow Garage; he was a charming man in an old pinto filled with dogs.  He was so happy to see the “pink Cadillac” he said “This is a fourth no one will get but me, Thank you wonderful people!”  We promised to send him a photo.   Next to the White Arrow, is Gallery 66.   It is a very quaint and charming gallery. The owner/artist Mary Trask is a New England transplant, who purchased the historic building and land off the internet three years ago.  She represents local artists and artist from around the world.  Her specialty is mosaic. work.  Her friendly and warm storytelling will entertain and delight the traveler looking for a break.  But for the traveler looking for local art and the stories to go with it, this is the place to go. She has a wide range of “Garden Art”, jewelry, pottery and mosaics and if you visit at the right time of the year she will send you on your way with fresh apricots from her orchard.

By nightfall we arrived at our hotel in Gallup, NW.  The El Rancho: Home of he Movie Stars, a fabulous old hotel full of character.  We paid 6 dollars more to get a room with a balcony!  The Hotel touts its self as having the “Charm of Yesterday, Convenience of Tomorrow” but no Internet service here. Not quite that advanced.

Gallup closes on Sundays so we had dinner in the Hotel.  After dinner we got directions to the fireworks show and took off to oooooh and ahhhhh with the locals.  I have to say the people of Gallup love their fireworks.  Besides the sanctioned fireworks, that were pretty darn good, the hills were filled with sprays of light all night long.  Another day on the road, another day of fun and laughter.

 

July 3 Hillbillys and more deadends

July 3, 2004 

We left Clinton, OK bound for Amarillo and the Cadillac Ranch. We also wanted to see Debbie, the Maid of Honor in our wedding 20 years ago. We haven’t seen each other in 15 years.  Amarillo is also the very first paper I ever worked. I was the first woman photographer they had ever seen.  I didn’t last long in Amarillo.  Although it was filled with the nicest folks you could ever meet.  It was just a whole lot different than what I grew up with.  Most of you have heard the stories so I won’t bore you here.  Before arriving in Amarillo however, we stopped off in Erick, OK.  Where we met “The Mediocre Music Makers” Harley and Annabelle.  If you ever find yourself in Erick be sure to stop by for an attitude adjusting, mind bending, musical treat.  You can’t avoid Annabelle’s blue eyes, or Harley personality.  Harley says she stopped for a “break from the highway 20 years ago and never left.”  .If your lucky their friend Jim Hicks will be there and share with you his “thirsty stones” and Indian artifacts collection. They can be found in the historic “City Meat Market”, where the drinks are on the house and the antiques and entertainment will keep you talking for miles and days later

Well, after escaping Erick we turned down old route 66, towards Alanreed, only to see that the road turned into a bumpy gravel pothole infested ranch road.  After the second cattle guard crossing at Trew Ranch we chickened out and turned around. After much discussion we decided if we were ever going to make the Grand Canyon we would have to make a quick visit with Debbie in Amarillo and keep heading west.

We stopped to get cold water and ice cream bars, having a hard time finding real ice cream cones.  We met a junior champion bull rider.  Matthew Keyes says he doesn?t like horses, prefers to ride bulls.  He also says one day we will see him on the rodeo circuit.  His folks were very nice, made me remember all the kind people I met in Amarillo during my short stay, 25 years ago.  We also took some time out to sign the VW Bug ranch.  A tourist rip off, of the Cadillac ranch, but still fun. We will catch the Cadillac ranch on our way back home.  It was a short hello at the Amarillo Globe News where Debbie works now and a warning that we were heading west towards a thunderstorm.  Introductions were made to Ella whom Debbie never met and a few stories told of my time at the Globe-News and we took her warning and headed west.  We made a short stop in Vega, Texas to look at the boot bush and dot?s mini route 66 Museum. We drove through Adrian, Texas the Midway point on route 66, and again we were chased out of town by a dog this one was named Peanut.

We hit some rain and the most beautiful sunset you could imagine the kind that makes you realize why New Mexico is the ?land of enchantment?.

We pulled into Tucumcari just as the sun was setting.  What luck ?The Blue Swallow? had a room.  This just might be the most stunning neon motel on the Route 66 stretch so far.  The rooms have been wonderfully restored and if your not driving a 22.5-foot long Cadillac you have a private carport to park in. This is a must see if you ever arrive at sunset. It was also the perfect backdrop for Hannah to entertain all of us in the vintage circus outfit.  We have all laughed alot on this journey.  We all loved Tucumcari.  After a nice dinner at Del?s and downloading the days photos we all went to bed early.

July 2, 2004

We stayed in Claremore, OK at the Will Rogers Inn.  It was an interesting Hotel, But the room was clean and the pool refreshing. The girls spent some time swimming at the pool with the Enid, Oklahoma baseball team.  Then on the road early to the J.M. Davis gun collection Museum.  (if you like guns I recommend stopping.) Then up the hill to the Will Rogers Memorial, this one was really interesting.  Then on the road again, through Tulsa, Catoosa, OK City, Yukon.  

We met Paul W. Brown and his wife Geraldine.  It was her birthday!  He told stories and sent us to Hugo’s for a hearty home cooked breakfast.  (Did you know in Oklahoma, an order of Eggs Benedict, means eggs with Velveeta? I do now!) 

We stopped in Catoosa at The Blue Whale.   To bad you can’t swim there anymore.   We are still doing ok with out air conditioning but it is getting hotter.  Hannah drove for over two hours today while Rick rested in the back. Then on to The Cherokee gift shop in Weatherford, OK.  Where cowboys still ride in on horseback to “git a drink of tea.”  It was dark so not photos of the cowboys. Spent the night in Clinton, OK.  We plan to be at the Cadillac Ranch today!! 

July 1, 2004

July 1, 2004

Back on to Old 66.  We left Springfield, Mo. late this morning after the rain stopped.  First stop was a quaint little town called Halltown.  Chatted with Mike and Jerry they own a gift and antique shop on the old road.  The girls found purses, while Rick chatted with the boys; we were chased out of town by a mangy mutt. Farther down the road we found some of the original cement road, in what was Spencer, Missouri. We stopped in Carthage, Mo. to walk through some antique shops. While in the town we used the public bathrooms in the county courthouse, but not before taking a ride in the historic elevator still operated by a county employee.  While in Carthage we drove out to the Route 66 Drive in, the girls tried out the playground.  After a few spins it was off to Iggy’s diner for lunch.

Back on the Road. If we keep stopping at everything that catches our fancy we may never get home……..

An update in Clinton OK

July 2, 2004

This is just a collection of photos.  not the best connection here and we are trying ot get on the road will download all the cameras and attach better photos later.  We are in Clinton OK now.  The weather has cleared up Hannah has put in some serious miles so we are all doing well.  Sorry that caththis collection is not so organized.

 

Open road

Not sure when we will update again.  It is now thursday and it is raining so will talk to you all later.  Cheers!!

open road or dead end

June 30, 2004 Dead ends and open road.

We did a bunch of sight seeing and had a great a time.  The old road it tough to follow.  We have hit a bunchof dead-ends.  Often it runs right next to the main road.

Trail of tears

June 30, 2004    Trail of Tears an abandoned place.

Staying on the old Route 66 is tricky.  Have found several dead ends.  Somewhere, around Devil’s Elbow we found the strangest place.  It was an abandoned commune or tourist trap. We are not sure what exactly.  But we had to explore it.  This one deserves photos so please take a look.  Words cannot describe what we found.  This is a maze of walls build from cobblestone.  Ornate arches built the same way.  Water falls and fountains and cement figurines that are larger than life.   Boy it was intriguing.

Sightseeing

June 30, 2004   Meramec Caverns

Every one slept in today.  Last nights episode stuck on the side of the road tired everyone out.  But it has not dampened our spirit. Today is a new day.  We drove in to Cuba, Mo for a nice breakfast at the Route 66 café(see Hannah’s journal for a report).  Then back a few miles to the Famous Meramec Caverns.  They were very impressive we all enjoyed it.  Even the corny old jokes and stories were fun.  If you plan on ever going bring a jacket it’s a cool 60 degrees.  Picked up a few charms, ate ice cream and back on the road.  Matilda is running great today.  She is like a whole new car with her fuel pump gasket on tight. Today she is happy cruising at 65-70 what a difference.  She is also now getting well over ten miles to a gallon. 

Broken down

Tuesday June 29, 2004

The day has been an interesting one.  Stopping at many out of the way places. The car has not been traveling well, so staying on old Route 66 is best.  She is most happy traveling at 45-50.  We went through Saint. Louis, stopped at the Arch. It was very impressive. St. Louis is where we left the National Pike Route 40 and joined historic Route 66.  Then on to Ted Drew's Famous custard.  We would like to stay at the famous Wagon Wheel Motel in Cuba Mo tonight so back on the road.  It's getting late and the car is not able to keep up the speed on the main highway, she has been smelling of gas every since we left the Tri- County Grill in Pacific, Mo. So, back on the old road, to let her drive more slowly.  But wait it's a dead-end. OH NO!!! Matilda has just decided to quit.  It's ten thirty at night.  On an abandoned road in the middle of nowhere and we are dead.  Well, lets take a look.  We look and see nothing. Rick fiddles with stuff then she starts right up.  One minor problem.  The car is spraying gas everywhere. Something is definitely wrong.  Rick jumps out looks at the steady stream of gas.  He makes a quick assessment.  Looks like a gasket on the fuel pump is leaking.  So he takes it apart puts it back and presto it is fixed.  Now back for gas.  BUT the only gas station just closed for the night. A little old lady tells us through the door that we will need to go back six miles.  After a very pathetic pleading she says she will turn on one pump for us as long as we usea credit card.  18 gallons.  The car had gone through 18 gallons of gas in 70 miles.  Thank god for the kindness of strangers.  We were back on the road and heading west.  The car runs better now than she has the whole trip. Wow! What a night that was.  But as we said in the beginning ?Life is an Adventure.?

Monday June 28 heading west

June 28, 2004 

After homemade pie and updating our journals we took off from Gramma Kozak's for the open road.  The weather is overcast and the car is missing going up hills.  But we are remaining optimistic and motoring on.

We learned today that we couldn’t drive far in one day.  We are only able to make 300-400 miles.

It feels as if the car is flooding out. Rick has stopped to buy all kinds of stuff to try to stop the missing. Maybe Tuesday we can find a mechanic. We didn't make Saint Louis tonight but we are close.

We did eat ice cream and we found a nice little resturant (Adair's) in historic Centerville, Indiana.  Go to Hannah's journal (Route 66) for the food run down and collections of food photos.

We stopped at "the largest antique mall in the United States". Bought a circus outfit more on that later.

Goodnight, June, 28 2004 11:12pm